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Drain Pros TNWoman-owned · TN LLP #5045

sump groundwater · TN LLP #5045 · verify.tn.gov

Sump Pump Replacement

Replacing a failed or undersized pump in an existing pit, sized to the water it actually moves.

Quick answer

We replace failed and undersized sump pumps in existing pits across the whole service area, sized to how fast the pit actually fills rather than to whatever was in there. A like-for-like swap needs no permit. Cutting in a new pit or routing a new discharge can, and the office checks that per address. The dedicated circuit is an electrician's work and is referred out.

A sump pump is a wear part with a motor in it. It is not a fixture, and it does not last the life of the house. Replacing one before it fails is much cheaper than replacing it the morning after it did.

Most replacements we do fall into two groups: a pump that has simply reached the end of a normal working life, and a pump that was the wrong size for the pit from the day it went in. The second group is larger than people expect, because the usual method of choosing a replacement is reading the horsepower off the old one.

That number tells you what somebody bought once. It does not tell you what the house needs, and if the old pump was short-cycling itself to death, matching it repeats the mistake.

What the job covers

  • Replacing failed, undersized, and worn-out pumps in existing pits
  • Sizing to the measured fill rate, the lift, and the length of the discharge run
  • Fitting a new check valve and inspecting the discharge line as part of the job
  • Submersible and pedestal replacements, with a straight recommendation on which suits the pit
  • Battery backup pumps fitted alongside the primary, where the property justifies one

How to tell

Signs you need sump pump replacement

  • The pump is past about seven to ten years of real service
  • It runs but cannot keep up during heavy rain
  • It short-cycles: on, off, on again within seconds
  • Rust or scale in the pit, or an impeller you can hear grinding
  • You have been repairing the same pump more than once a year
  • The house has taken water even though the pump was working

Sizing to the pit, not to the old pump

The right way to size a replacement is to measure how fast the pit refills with the pump switched off, then match a pump to that rate plus the height it has to lift and the length of the run. A long horizontal discharge across a crawlspace costs the pump real capacity, and a pump chosen without accounting for it underperforms on exactly the day it is needed.

Oversizing is a real failure mode too, not a safe default. A pump that empties the pit faster than the pit fills will start and stop constantly, and short-cycling is what kills sump pumps. Bigger is not automatically better here.

What we replace while we are in there

A pump swap that reuses a tired check valve and a discharge line nobody has looked at is half a job. We replace the check valve as a matter of course, look at the discharge run for sags, blockages, and freeze exposure, and make sure the pit is clear of the debris that got into the last impeller.

We also check that the pump is not sitting flat on the bottom of the pit picking up silt, which is one of the quiet reasons a replacement fails early and the customer concludes the brand was bad.

A new pit is a different job, and we will say so

Replacing a pump in a pit that already exists is straightforward work. Putting a sump system into a crawlspace that never had one is not the same job: it means excavating a pit, setting a liner, routing a discharge to somewhere the water will actually leave, and getting a dedicated circuit run to it by an electrician.

That is worth scoping properly rather than quoting off a phone call, and depending on the address it may need a permit. Call the office and we will tell you honestly what the job is, including the parts of it that are not ours.

How we work

How we handle sump pump replacement

Step 01

Measure the fill rate

We time how fast the pit refills with the pump off. That number, not the old pump's label, decides the size.

Step 02

Account for the lift and the run

Vertical lift plus the length of the horizontal discharge, which in a crawlspace is often long enough to matter.

Step 03

Set the pump clear of the silt

Off the bottom of the pit, so the impeller is not eating the sediment that killed the last one.

Step 04

Replace the check valve

Every time. A new pump behind an old check valve inherits the short-cycling that wore the last one out.

Step 05

Test a full cycle and hand over the float setting

We run it, confirm it shuts off and holds, and show you what normal looks like so you can spot abnormal.

Permits

Some plumbing work requires a permit and an inspection, and some does not. Whether one is required for your job is determined by the Authority Having Jurisdiction — the city or county building and codes office for your address — and it is at their discretion.

Usually requires a permit

  • Water heater replacement and tankless conversion
  • Whole-house repiping
  • Water service line and sewer line replacement
  • Gas line installation and repair
  • Relocating a fixture to a new position

Usually does not

  • Drain cleaning and clearing blockages
  • Emergency and repair work
  • Like-for-like fixture replacement
  • Water heater repair
  • Camera inspection and diagnostics

This is general guidance rather than a ruling, and it can differ from one town to the next. The Authority Having Jurisdiction makes the determination. Across the Bradley–McMinn corridor we pull the permit and book the inspection ourselves. Inside Hamilton County and Chattanooga the permit office does not accept an application from our license class, so permit-required jobs there are referred to a licensed partner who does the work and meets the inspector.

Common questions

Sump Pump Replacement: your questions answered

Can I just get the same size pump as the old one?
Often that is right, but confirm rather than assume. If the old pump was short-cycling or could not keep up in heavy rain, matching it repeats whatever was wrong. We measure how fast the pit fills and size to that.
Do I need a permit to replace a sump pump?
A like-for-like swap in an existing pit, no. Cutting in a new pit or running a new discharge route can need one depending on the town, and the office checks that per address before anything is scheduled.
Do you install a sump system where there is not one already?
That is a different and larger job than a pump swap, involving excavation, a liner, a discharge route, and a dedicated circuit run by an electrician. Call the office and we will scope it honestly, including the parts that are not ours to do.
Do you run the electrical for it?
No. The dedicated circuit and receptacle are an electrician's license. We fit the pump and the plumbing and are straight with you about where that line is.
Is a battery backup worth it?
It depends on whether your pit fills during storms, because the storm that floods the house is frequently the storm that takes the power out. If the pump only runs in wet weather, a backup is doing real work. We will tell you if we think yours does not need one.
What kind of warranty do you offer?
A one-year workmanship warranty on plumbing from the date of completion, covering the specific work performed — it does not extend to unrelated or pre-existing conditions. Drain cleaning carries a 30-day warranty unless we state otherwise, excluding closet augers. Manufacturer warranties cover the parts and equipment separately. That is the whole of it, in writing.
Will I get a price before the work starts?
Yes. You get a number to approve before we begin, not a bill that grows once the truck is in the driveway. Straight pricing is the whole point of how we work.
Are you actually licensed?
Yes. Tennessee Limited Licensed Plumber #5045, issued by the state Board for Licensing Contractors and verifiable through the state's public lookup at verify.tn.gov. No competitor in this market puts their number on the page — we lead with ours.

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TN Limited Licensed Plumber · #5045 · verify at verify.tn.gov

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